April 6 marks the 100th anniversary of the U.S.’s entry into World War I. Even though it was fought “over there” in Europe, the war had a profound effect on the daily lives of Americans, especially their diet. Our allies in France were starving, and our soldiers needed protein power. Instead of rationing on the home front, Herbert Hoover, then head of the Food Administration, tried a psychological approach, issuing posters and pamphlets that urged home chefs to use less meat. He was effectively guilt-tripping gluttonous Americans into lighter eating habits. As the Food and Victory (1918) cookbook put it, “The use of less meat in this country should not mean a hardship to our people. Indeed, most Americans have eaten too much of it.” Why not try mock oysters, i.e. boiled rice, turnip and nut balls, instead? Serve with catsup.
Hoover’s innovation—restored to public attention in 2003—was the notion of “Meatless Monday,” although, for whatever reason, they chose Tuesday to be America’s vegetarian day, alliteration be damned. The War Cook Book for American Women: Suggestions for Patriotic Service in the Home, issued in 1917 by the United States Food Administration, laid out the culinary commands: a minimum of two wheatless days (Monday and Wednesday); one meatless (Tuesday); and two porkless (Tuesday and Saturday). Further advice: “Give cottage cheese a fair trial.” For example, cottage cheese and peanut butter soup is tasty, according to Food and Victory.
To illustrate the importance of these conservation tactics, The War Cook Book even contained a pledge card for women to sign indicating that they would “carry out the directions and advice of the Food Administrator in my home.” (More than 13 million signed this pledge.) They were warned, “Disloyalty in little things gives aid to the enemy. Keep the Pledge.” And they were encouraged to spy on their neighbors, too. “Report to the nearest food administration officer the name and address of any person discouraging the production or saving of food.”
Enlisting women to serve their country (in the kitchen) prompted the publication of many wartime cookbooks with handy meat-alternative recipes. While cheese and vegetables were relatively easy swaps for American palates—though the cream of lima bean soup (from Liberty Cook Book, 1917) sounds less than appetizing—the cookbook authors had to get creative with beans, nuts, and fish. Which is how dishes like kidney bean roast, hot bean custard and scalloped beans got invited to the party. The bean roast (from Liberty) consists of parboiled beans that are grated and mixed with cheese and breadcrumbs and then formed into a non-meat loaf. The bean custard (from War-time Cookery, 1917) is an egg and bean pulp mixture that appears to be a meatball replacement, to be served with pasta and tomato sauce, if desired. A casserole of scalloped beans (from Food and Victory) is prepared with cooked, mashed beans topped with corn flakes and baked for 45 minutes, also (inexplicably) accompanied by tomato sauce.