Cocktail Queries: Is “Watering Down” Whiskey a Bad Thing? What Does Dilution Do?
Photo via Unsplash, Adam Jaime, Dylan de Jonge, Daniel Norris
Cocktail Queries is a Paste series that examines and answers basic, common questions that drinkers may have about mixed drinks, cocktails and spirits. Check out every entry in the series to date.
When it comes to whiskey/whisky discussion, there are always a few particular arguments that are waiting to happen. One of the most perennially misunderstood? “Should I add water/ice to my whiskey?”
The concept and science of dilution, as it applies to whiskey, is something where the rank and file drinker can often be lacking education. They likely understand that adding a bit of water can help tame the fiery ethanol of stronger or “harsher” drams, but they’re not likely to understand what water really does to a spirit. And on a deeper level, it’s easy to be unaware of just how much water has been involved in the production process of your bourbon, rye, or scotch before you even uncork the bottle. Spoiler: There’s no such thing as “non-watered down” whiskey. It’s just a matter of when and how water was involved, but overall it’s safe to say that water itself is consistently the most misunderstood whiskey ingredient.
Therefore, let’s quickly summarize the role and effect of water on whiskey, both during production and after you crack open the bottle.
Dilution During Whiskey Production
Whiskey or whisky comes off the still at a variety of strengths in various countries, at different distilleries and in different styles, but the one constant is that this spirit doesn’t head straight into a barrel for aging. It’s simply too strong, too harsh and too unpalatable—you wouldn’t want to drink 160 proof bourbon, which is the legal maximum for initial distillation. In fact, a bourbon distilled to that level and then inserted into a barrel would likely end up even stronger after aging (due to water evaporation), and borderline undrinkable.
Of course, this wouldn’t be legally allowed in the U.S., anyway. Although bourbon can be distilled to a point as high as 160 proof, more grain-derived flavors and congeners (flavor compounds) are left in the spirit when the initial distillation proof is lower, closer to the 130-140 proof range. This is the level that most U.S. distilleries choose for their products. U.S. law then sets a maximum of 125 proof as the strongest level that whiskey can enter a barrel, meaning that an initial dilution with water is necessary at this point in order to bring the distilled spirit down to its barrel entry proof.
Note: 125 proof is the maximum level, and it’s the choice for many of the largest distilleries such as Jim Beam because it yields the most overall spirit per batch and is thus the most profitable way to do business. Many other distilleries, though, choose to put their spirit into barrels at a lower proof, believing that this results in better flavor extraction from the barrel while aging. Wild Turkey, for instance, uses a barrel entry proof of 115, while Maker’s Mark favors 110. Some smaller distilleries such as Peerless, meanwhile, go as low as 103 for barrel entry proof, but this is much more rare. These distilleries tend to tout low entry proof as a feature, because it’s significantly more expensive to make whiskey that way—because more water has been added prior to aging, they’re going to get less bottles of whiskey out of each barrel after the spirit is proofed down to its final level after aging.
Water is actually an important component in drawing flavor out of a charred oak barrel.
The science here contends that low entry proofs extract a more desirable flavor in part because water molecules are smaller than ethanol molecules—thus, they penetrate the wood more readily and draw those charred flavors back into the solution. Water also helps to deserve harsher phenolic compounds, which can contribute unpleasantly wood-dominated, tannic flavors in some whiskeys. And perhaps unexpectedly, the math also indicates that lower barrel entry proofs ultimately means you have to add less water overall to the spirit to bring it down to the desired final proof (usually 80-100 proof for standard whiskeys). This post explains the math nicely.
After aging in barrels, whiskey can be bottled at “cask strength”/“barrel proof,” but the majority of releases are then diluted once again to a final serving level that is bottled. Obviously, economic factors play in here—if you dilute the contents of a barrel to 80 proof, you get many more bottles than if you leave it at 115 or 120 proof. This is part of the reason why those higher proof whiskeys are typically more expensive.