Tasting: 3 Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Whiskeys (Rye Bourbon, Wheated Bourbon, Rye Whiskey)
Photos via Heaven Hill Drink Features whiskey
The average whiskey consumer might have a tendency to look at a new series of releases such as the Heaven Hill Grain to Glass series and not quite understand, at a glance, what a radical departure it is for a company of this scope to suddenly debut not even one but three new mash bills. Suffice to say, at a company the size of Heaven Hill–the second largest producer of Kentucky bourbon behind only Beam–change like this happens slowly, if at all. We’re talking about a company built around one core traditional (rye) bourbon recipe, which can be found in all of its many brands. They likewise have one core wheated bourbon recipe, and one rye whiskey recipe. That’s what makes this new series so unusual–it swerves into a completely new lane with three new mash bills that the company has never used in anything before.
The core of the Grain to Glass concept revolves around the use of new, hybrid corn varieties that Heaven Hill has likewise not used in any of its products in the past. For this project, the distillery began partnering seven years ago with family-owned seed company Beck’s Hybrids to explore new varieties of corn to use in distillation. Those early experiments with their proprietary corn have now aged for six years, resulting in this trio of new whiskey releases. Each subsequent year of the series will feature a new, different type of estate corn in this way. Each whiskey is presented at an advanced proof, though only the 123.2 proof rye whiskey is actually at cask strength. The company refers to the others as “ideal proof.”
What’s a little odd about the series though, when you think about it, is that each of these whiskeys revolves around the new corn varietal dubbed Beck’s 6158, but the recipes are instead built around higher than usual percentages of the so-called flavoring grains, rye and wheat. These grains are thus contributing a bigger part of the flavor profile than in standard Heaven Hill products, but it doesn’t seem as if they hail from a proprietary producer like Beck’s Hybrids. So it seems a little weird to structure the “grain to glass” aspect around corn, when the actual flavor contribution of that corn is going to be less prominent in the resulting products than in the typical Heaven Hill bourbon or rye whiskey. Or maybe I’m just overthinking this?
Regardless, let’s get to tasting these three exciting new Heaven Hill whiskey expressions.
Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Straight Bourbon 2024
ABV: 53.5% (107 proof)
MSRP: $100
This is the classic rye bourbon in the group, made from a substantially higher rye mash bill of 52% corn, 35% rye and 13% malted barley. Considering that the classic Heaven Hill bourbon mash bill has only 12% rye, this is definitely a big jump in this capacity. It’s the weakest of these three expressions, at “merely” 107 proof. Distilled in 2017, it was bottled at 6+ years old.
On the nose, this one displays ribbons of classic caramel and vanilla bourbon characteristics, but also heavy rye–I am getting pronounced mintiness and fresh rye grain, a good charge of fresh herbal tones, along with apricot fruit. There’s fresh cut woodiness and a hint of pine, along with green apple and a little anise-like spice. Ethanol is nicely subdued on the nose.
On the palate, the green apple comes forward again for me, along with citrus and significant mint making the rye presence of this mash bill felt strongly. There’s caramel as well, but it’s not a very sweet impressions actually–there’s actually more astringency here than expected, reminding me of the tannic feeling of strong green tea. This ends up drying my palate out more than expected, with the tannic sensation and fresh cut wood finish lingering on the tongue, marring this experience for me a bit. It feels perhaps like some of the sweetness has been lost in translation.
Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Wheated Bourbon 2024
ABV: 60.5% (121 proof)
MSRP: $100
The wheated bourbon here is a counterpart to existing wheated bourbons in the Heaven Hill lineup such as Larceny or Old Fitzgerald, but like the Grain to Glass rye bourbon above, it contains a higher proportion of wheat: 35%, rather than the 20% used in something like the Larceny series. Again, the distillery is letting the “flavor grains” speak more strongly here.
On the nose, this leads off with a dusty/grainy note that is segueing into more of an identifiably wheaty/bready vibe. I’m getting toffee sweetness here, and a little cherry fruit, with vanilla. The overall impression makes my mind drift to oatmeal with fresh cut fruit pieces. There are also hints of toasted oak on the nose, with flashes of nutty cocoa powder.
On the palate, this is a warmer profile than the rye bourbon in my opinion, favoring more toffee and some pepper spice–a characteristic I’ve always been sort of surprised to get in Heaven Hill wheated bourbons, which tend to be spicier in my experience than wheaters from other distilleries. Here, it’s comfortably familiar. Doughy, bready wheat melds with slightly bitter toffee and pops of red fruit, while the ethanol shows up in the sensation of spice and tingling chiles on the tongue. This one also takes a somewhat dry turn in the finish, though less so than in the rye bourbon, being more balanced overall in my opinion.
Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Rye Whiskey 2024
ABV: 61.6% (123.2 proof)
MSRP: $100
The rye whiskey entry in the series is from yet another new mash bill, at least in theory–I think this is the same one that has been used in the Square 6 lineup, but those whiskeys are distilled on a pot rather than column still. This one is 63% rye, 24% corn and 13% malted barley, compared with the classic Heaven Hill rye mash bill that is 51% rye like most other classic Kentucky rye whiskeys. Like the others, it’s 6 years old, and it’s the stoutest of the bunch at a commanding 123.2 proof. Heaven Hill doesn’t put out barrel proof rye whiskeys all that often–it’s the one thing they don’t have in a regularly released series, though Pikesville Rye is 110 proof–so one could argue that this is potentially the most unconventional of the group.
On the nose, this one is bold indeed–big, sweet combination of fruit and heavy rye spice and baking spice impressions. I’m getting more dark fruit here, a little syrupy or cooked in nature, with both savory rye spice and sweeter baking spice/oak spice. There’s some maple, along with toasted oak, and almost Chai-like sweet spices. Of the three, it’s definitely the nose that most excites me.
On the palate, this one really commands the attention with a deep, rich, spicy rye experience with some moderate sweetness backing it up. I’m getting a lot of roasty coffee and mocha here, along with black pepper, seeded rye bread and molasses cookie. That flows into a plethora of sweet baking spice notes, touching on brown sugar cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, with solid but not obtrusive heat on both the palate and the chest.
For me, this rye whiskey in the Grain to Glass series ends up being the clear standout, and my favorite of the group. It has an intensity of flavor that I would love to see as a regularly released Heaven Hill offering going forward. I can’t help but wonder: How similar or different will future installments of the Grain to Glass series actually be, when the key aspect rotating in new varieties of corn? We’ll probably have to wait until next year for the answer to that question, but I’ll be curious to find out.
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident craft beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.