Sierra Norte Single Barrel Whiskey: White Corn, Yellow Corn and Black Corn Whiskey
Photo by Jim Vorel
Even in the realm of spirits, “Mexican whiskey” isn’t a phrase you see very often.
And why not, anyway? Mexico has grown corn for uncounted generations, and the majority of any American bourbon (50-plus percent by definition) is distilled from corn as well. Okay, so perhaps rye isn’t in common supply that far south, but wonderful whiskeys have been made with far less. It seems like there would be quite a market for whiskey south of the border, offering an obvious alternative to tequila and mezcal.
And lo, here’s Sierra Norte, a Mexican company making three different single barrel whiskeys from three distinct varieties of corn. Each is a young spirit, aged for “at least 8 months” in French oak, and each has its differences: Yellow Corn Whiskey, White Corn Whiskey and Black Corn Whiskey, although the mash bill on each is 85 percent corn, 15 percent malted barley. Ultimately, we found two of them more palatable than the other. It seems they tend to range from the $40-50 range, in terms of 750 ml bottle prices.
So, let’s get to tasting.
Sierra Norte Single Barrel Whiskey Yellow Corn
Of the three, I found the yellow corn whiskey to be the most reassuringly familiar, and the most similar to 100 percent corn whiskeys I’ve sampled from other craft distillers. The nose is grainy, corny and buttery sweet, recalling fairground popcorn balls, while also being just slightly smoky/roasty.
On the palate, this one actually surprises a bit with a certain fresh, grassy character, before it settles into the corny sweetness that would be more expected. It’s a little bit on the hot side (they’re all 90 proof), with flavors of wildflower honey, caramel and a bit of smoke. There’s a slightly musty quality to the nose that impedes what is otherwise a nice, rich, sweet impression, although I enjoy the exotic touches of spice on the back end, which reminded me of fennel seed/anise. A little bit of mesquite smoke rounds everything out.
All in all, not bad. It’s a bit like a young, corn-heavy bourbon, with with an exotic edge.
Rating: 7.6
Sierra Norte Single Barrel Whiskey White Corn
The white corn is perhaps the most easygoing of the bunch to my palate, which is neither a compliment nor a detractor. On the nose, it’s smooth and sweet, with butterscotch and banana notes.