What to Do in Santa Barbara, California
Photo credits at bottom of page
Santa Barbara has a rep. It’s an escape for the extremely rich and Californian, an idyllic town nestled between the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Santa Barbara Harbor, 95 miles northwest of Los Angeles. It’s where Hollywood stars and L.A. tycoons buy a house when they want to get away from the city. It’s where almost all of downtown—from the courthouse, to the stores and hotels, to the public spaces—bears the distinctive red tiles and white walls of Spanish Colonial Revival architecture. It’s where the Old Mission Santa Barbara itself can be found, a Spanish jewel that might be the most breathtaking mission on California’s storied Camino Real.
It’s where Dick Wolf keeps his boat.
Santa Barbara doesn’t just have a reputation. It has a mystique. It’s where the tony, upscale California of the 20th century unites with the state’s Spanish heritage, and where celebrities as disparate as Steve Martin, Oprah Winfrey, tennis champ Jimmy Connors, and Depeche Mode member Martin Gore have settled after getting rich. And although guests will never forget that this is a town of great wealth, they’ll find that it’s gracious, hospitable, and surprisingly modest. Santa Barbara isn’t a playground for the rich and famous; it’s a place where people from all walks of life can find relaxation and enrichment—even if it’s also where Batman just couldn’t find a place to get rid of a bomb in the 1966 Batman movie.
I recently spent almost a week in Santa Barbara, and sure, I want to move there now. Who wouldn’t? That will probably never happen, but at least I can think back on my time there whenever I get wistful—and pull the photos up on my phone.
If you ever find yourself in Santa Barbara, here’s what you need to put on your to-do list.
What to Do
With Santa Barbara it’s best to start downtown—particularly at the Santa Barbara County Courthouse. Although Santa Barbara’s courthouse has sat on this plot of land since 1872, the current building, and its distinctive Spanish Colonial Revival architecture, date back to 1926, when construction was started the year after an earthquake leveled much of the town. This National Historic Landmark is more than a courthouse; it’s been a meeting place for Santa Barbarans for almost a century, home to countless functions and a daily procession of weddings. You will see a line of people getting their wedding photos taken at the courthouse, and it’s no surprise why: this building and its grounds are absolutely gorgeous, and make the best possible introduction to Santa Barbara.
While you’re downtown, stop by the Santa Barbara Museum of Art, just a short walk away from the courthouse. Located in one of the buildings that survived the earthquake, the museum is home to a wide-ranging collection of 19th and 20th century art, with a notable collection of French Impressionist paintings and American Modern art. You’ll find everything from 3000 year old Persian artifacts to 21st century mixed media. And although the museum’s purview is international, it does take a special interest in Californian art. During our visit, exhibitions examined Texas-based artist Dario Robleto’s fascinating interdisciplinary work about the search for extraterrestrial life, and a collection of art by US-based women from Latin American cultures; they were a nice complement to the museum’s primary ongoing exhibit of international art from 1850 through 1950.
Beyond the courthouse and museum, downtown Santa Barbara is easily walkable, and full of both unique local shops and national chains. Take a day to leisurely stroll down State Street and explore its shops, cafes, and restaurants. Drop in on the shopping complexes at La Arcada Plaza and Paseo Nuevo, or take in a film at the Arlington Theatre or the Metro 4. The Arlington also features live performances, from fine arts to pop to speaking engagements, while the Granada Theatre supplements its largely fine arts programming with live theater and touring Broadway shows.
Less than two miles from downtown, the historic Stearns Wharf Pier stretches 2300 feet into the harbor. Although various fires and earthquakes have caused great damage to the wharf, it continues to serve the community as it has since 1872. If you’re an angler, rent some gear and post up on the harbor for some top notch fishing action. Get ice cream at Great Pacific Ice Cream Co., or grab a drink and some oysters at the famous Moby Dick Restaurant. And make sure you make time for the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History, which will give you a deep dive into the flora, fauna, and ecosystem of the Santa Barbara Channel.
You can find a different aquatic adventure one mile down the road from Stearns Wharf Pier, at the Santa Barbara Harbor. In addition to a number of restaurants and shops, the harbor is where you can embark on whale-watching tours or rent a variety of personal watercraft. It’s also the site of the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum, where you can learn about Santa Barbara’s nautical history, both above and beneath the waves.
At the harbor you can take a cruise on Lil’ Toot, “the happiest boat in the harbor.” This bright yellow tugboat turned water taxi offers narrated tours of the harbor while ferrying guests between the harbor and Stearns Wharf, and is also available for private charters. During our tour of the harbor our host pointed out the various celebrity-owned boats docked in the harbor, dug into Santa Barbara’s history, and discussed the unique wildlife of the channel—and also got us really close to the seals lounging on the buoys in the harbor. These big boys and gals were piled on top of each other, with latecomers constantly falling off and jumping back onto the buoy, barking and screaming at us when we got too close. It was glorious, and I’m pretty sure my seal-obsessed wife’s favorite part of the trip.
If you want to see animals in a slightly more controlled environment, stop by the Santa Barbara Zoo. With hundreds of animals and a focus on native California species, the zoo brings wildlife from throughout the state to Santa Barbara. And its Australian Walkabout addition brings some of the most fascinating animals from Down Under to the California coast, including kangaroos, wallabies, and a variety of birds. Depending on the time of year, you might be able to visit during a special seasonal event; our trip overlapped with its annual Zoo Lights holiday show, with elaborate, truly impressive displays of animals and nature made out of LED lights.
Up in the hills, looking over the harbor, in the nearby town of Montecito, sits Casa del Herrero. This living history museum preserves the gorgeous estate of the Steedman family exactly as it was in the ‘20s and ‘30s. The outside is a beautiful example of the Spanish Colonial style that the region is known for, and the inside is like traveling back a century to see how the wealthy lived before and during the Depression. Casa del Herrero is known for its striking, distinctive interiors, which are decorated with medieval icons, friezes, and artifacts imported from European churches. Tours are costly—$50 a person—but if you’re at all interested in history, architecture, or interior design, it’s a fascinating and inspiring journey into the past.
Finally, if you’re the active sort, Santa Barbara is a fantastic place for hiking and biking. Just, uh, don’t ask me for any tips; the most exercise I get on a trip like this is lifting a glass from the bar to my lips.
Where to Eat
Joe’s Cafe is almost 100 years old, and you can tell—in a good way. This classic downtown diner is like the platonic ideal of a hometown joint, with a large menu of sandwiches, salads, pasta, seafood, and various cuts of steak, along with such evergreen comfort food as fried chicken, ribs and chili—and that doesn’t even touch on its bountiful breakfast menu. Despite all those options, the move here is either the open-faced tri-tip sandwich—a cut of sirloin that’s iconic throughout California’s central coast—or the French dip sandwich—with tri-tip as well, of course. And I don’t think any 97-year-old restaurant called Joe’s Cafe could get away with not serving delicious home-made pies, bottomless cups of coffee, or cocktails that could put hair on your grandpa’s chest. It’s clear why Joe’s has been a Santa Barbara institution since 1928.
La Paloma Cafe is a bit more self-consciously Californian, with a killer selection of margaritas. In addition to free-range chicken and Wagyu tri-tip entrees, you can get a gourmet salad, bowl or wrap. The starters impressed us the most, particularly the crispy brussels sprouts with charred oak soy porcini sauce and cotija cheese, and the skillet cornbread with salt and honey butter. The main reason to come here might be the margaritas, though; there’s a good variety, and the ones we sampled were all fantastic. It’s also a popular brunch spot, too.
Away from downtown, right across from the coast, and stretching out from within the Santa Barbara Inn, you’ll find Convivo. This Italian restaurant offers a tantalizing assortment of pastas, pizzas, small plates, and sandwiches, offering a delicious Mediterranean spin on farm-to-table. We started with their house-made focaccia—pillowy chunks of fresh-baked bread available with a variety of seasons and toppings. Next up was a plate of the beef carpaccio, thin slices of beef dusted with grated horseradish and fried capers, with dollops of creamy bagna cauda. I had the chicken diavola, with healthy portions of grilled chicken with romesco and aioli between two slices of focaccia; it was great on the table and just as good late that night out of the hotel room fridge. My wife, meanwhile, had what she still claims is the best pizza she’s ever tasted in her entire life. The jamon and persimmon pizza is a seasonal offering, but one well worth the trip, with slices of ham and persimmon joined by gorgonzola, caramelized onions, and brussels leaves. Like all of Convivo’s pizzas, it’s baked in a wood-fire oven, and it’s absolutely fantastic—a sweet, savory, immaculately balanced pie. Convivo was the best meal we had in Santa Barbara, and it also offered the best view; if you sit outside you can spend your whole meal gazing at the Pacific, which means something to this lifelong East Coaster.
We didn’t eat a full meal at Flor De Maiz, but we did munch on a few apps—namely their chips and salsa, guacamole, and esquites Mexicanos (aka Mexican street corn). The grilled corn with spicy Taijin aioli and cotija cheese was a hit, as was the smooth, soothing guacamole. The drinks were just as good, especially the sweet heat of the margarito tamarindo con chile.
Speaking of drinks, I’ve got to mention Test Pilot—an understated tropical-themed bar inside a self-consciously hip part of Santa Barbara called the Funk Zone. Test Pilot serves tiki classics as well as its own concoctions in a small, inviting, smartly decorated room. Don’t expect a full-on Trader Vic’s style Polynesian experience, but instead something that could be described as Tiki Minimalism. It’s a good spot to grab a Zombie or Jungle Bird before dinner or while exploring the Funk Zone—or even a drink without rum in it.
Where to Stay
Located in the heart of downtown Santa Barbara, Drift is a modern hotel that makes a perfect home base during your stay. Its location makes it easy to walk anywhere downtown. It also has a seamless online check-in process that uses your phone as a key, so you don’t have to spend any time at a check-in counter. There’s a restaurant and bar too, and a small bakery selling breakfast pastries and coffee.
If you’re looking for a grander, more traditional home away from home—or just something closer to the harbor—you can’t go wrong with the Hilton Santa Barbara Beachfront Resort. Formerly named after its longtime owner, the famous actor and Disney legend Fess Parker (we’re talking about Davy Crockett himself, y’know), the Hilton is a rambling, luxurious resort that perfectly fits the architectural legacy of Santa Barbara. It’s a short walk to the beach and Stearns Wharf, and less than two miles from Santa Barbara Harbor.
Senior editor Garrett Martin writes about videogames, TV, travel, theme parks, wrestling, music, and more. You can also find him on Blue Sky.
Photo Credits:
Main photo and courthouse photo by Jay Sinclair, courtesy of Visit Santa Barbara
Stearns Wharf Pier photo by Gabriela Herman, courtesy of Visit Santa Barbara
Casa del Herrero and La Paloma Cafe photos by Garrett Martin